PTOtherJournal of physical therapy science2019

Characteristics of counter-movements in sport climbing: a comparison between experienced climbers and beginners.

Daichi Asakawa, Masaaki Sakamoto

PMID 31037008

WHAT IT FOUND

Experienced climbers moved their center of gravity farther horizontally than beginners and showed different joint angles, while beginners held more elbow flexion.

This describes movement differences, not evidence that injury prevention was tested.

Key findings

01Experienced climbers had a larger horizontal center-of-gravity movement width than beginners, 75.30 ± 14.54 cm versus 56.61 ± 7.97 cm.

02In phase 1, climbers had larger right shoulder flexion and abduction and smaller right elbow flexion than beginners.

03No significant differences were found in motion speed, total distance, or motion time.

STILL TO COME

How it was doneWhat they foundWhat it means for PTs

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What it does not show

The study included only 18 healthy men, 9 in each group, so the movement differences may not apply to women, children, or people with injury. Some reflective markers could not be traced, especially on the left hip and knee in beginners, so several joint angle values were missing. The analysis was two-dimensional, while climbing involves three-dimensional movement including rotation. Height and weight differed significantly between groups, and climbing grade and years of experience varied, so experience may not be the only difference. The study did not measure muscle strength or flexibility, which may influence movement.

Declared interests

No conflicts of interest were declared.

The easy way to misread this

Do not read these movement differences as proof that a technique prevents injury or improves performance. The study compared experienced climbers and beginners during one climbing task and did not test an intervention or injury outcomes.

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